Friday, June 29 2012 01:48

Food for Thought

By  John Cullen with Marty Shayt

Born Round: The Secret History of a Full-time Eater is a combination biography and coming out story by Frank Bruni, who did a stint as the primary restaurant critic for The New York Times. His tale offers insights to the struggle between the perceived conflicts between his lust for food and his lust for men.

 

Ruth Reichl, who preceded Bruni as the New York Times restaurant critic, captured her adventures in Garlic and Sapphires: The Secret Life of a Critic in Disguise. In this wonderful, hard-to-put-down book, she shares recipes as well as insights into the world of a restaurant critic. Her love for food is obvious, and it’s fascinating how restaurant personnel—as well as co-workers and family—respond differently to the various personas she takes on in her quest to report on how ordinary people fare while dining out.

A few years back, Michael Pollan’s The Omnivore’s Dilemma totally changed my attitudes about what I eat. Pollan traces how the foods we buy get to the grocery store. I found his lessons on the Midwest paradigm of “corn-fed beef” (and how that has more to do with corporate profits than with a good steak) have lingered in my mind even today. He has subsequently published shorter variations of these themes, but what I learned in these 400+ pages was worth every minute.

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