Chef Heng Duin (1949-2021): Hate for the most beloved

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Somewhere on a Sunday afternoon in the 1990s, trees were secretly eaten behind the sealed windows of the restaurant Aujourd’hui in the south. He was kidnapped from Scotland and made the classic way. “Woodcock was no longer allowed at that time,” says friend and colleague Ferry van Houghton, but star chef Heng Duin did just that. Sports and poultry, with which he wanted to work. “He was in excellent form this season.”

Classic recipes

Duin was also an accomplished chef of classic cuisine. “Fear of gel and powder. Learn to cook first, then nonsense. That’s what he called it.”

He more or less accidentally learned to cook in New Zealand. He started out as a waiter, but soon he found himself in a kitchen where he was in charge of the restaurant’s specialties. He shot there Carpet On CarpetK.

He cooked from Bloxigils Godzie Piz de Sluice to Brosserie Klein Bartenberg in Oderkerg on de Amstel, where he successfully defended the Michelin star. There he also saw fifteen-year-old Julius Jaspers going into his kitchen. “That’s where I started cooking. Henk sowed the seeds. They were in touch.” He was an experienced, classic cook with a lot of knowledge. If I have a question, I know who to turn to.

Today

The Amsterdammers moved to Quadijk in the eighties at Peacock in Sacramento in La Ciboulette, where Duin may first call himself a patron-chef. Much later he opened a restaurant called Azort Hui in the corner of Cornelis Grossmanstrod in Amsterdam, which was named after the funny egg: the egg yolk back in the bowl, topped with cream fries, chives and truffle croutons. A young Willem-Alexander took his new girlfriend Maxima with him and Johannes van Tom wrote in his review after a visit in May 1994. Tracking word About the soup: ‘White chicken cream with lettuce, morales and quail strips (ƒ19) is one of the tastiest we have ever tasted.’

Doin has always been busy with culinary work, says Van Howe. “But important: he had a great bowl of humor. He was immediately embraced by everyone.

The audience

The food was so good, people actually came to eat at Tuine, says chef Ron Blav, who did his second internship at La Cipullet, and later became a chef at the Tuine business in the south. “He was always busy on board, but also with guests. They received them when they came in. They greeted everyone as they went, sat with them and knew everyone by name.

Plow laid the foundation for his career at Twain. “I suddenly had a mushroom in my hand, tasted the wine for the first time and learned about sauces and dressings.” The knowledge he sends to his coach chefs. “I still hate my purr the way Henk taught me.”

After years of Parkinson’s, Heng Duin died Sunday morning at the age of 72.

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